Monstera · Propagation

Is October too late to take Monstera cuttings?

Published 13 May 2026

No, October is not too late to take monstera cuttings. Monstera don't actually have a dormant season in their native rainforests, and indoors they don't either. What changes in fall isn't the plant's biology, it's your living room: less light through the window and a few degrees less warmth on the sill. Get those two right and an October cutting roots like any other. It takes a few weeks longer to do it.

How is taking cuttings in October different from doing it in summer?

The cutting itself is the same. What changes is how patient you have to be while it roots, and where you put it.

In summer, a node sitting in a jar of water on a regular windowsill will usually push roots in two to three weeks. In October, expect closer to four to eight. Roots form a bit more slowly because indoor light is weaker and most rooms are a few degrees cooler than they were in July. Nothing is wrong. The cutting has less energy to work with.

A few small adjustments make the difference between a cutting that roots and one that stalls:

  • Use the brightest indoor spot you have. A south-facing window is ideal. If your brightest spot is still dim, a small clip-on grow light a foot above the jar gives the cutting what the season is taking away.
  • Keep the room above 65°F (18°C). The water doesn't need to be warm, but cold air around the cutting slows everything down.
  • Top the water up as it evaporates instead of changing it daily. Roots prefer to be left alone, and the cutting doesn't need fresh water unless the existing water has gone cloudy.
  • Plan on four to eight weeks before you see roots worth potting. Counting in weeks instead of days saves you from giving up early.
  • Wait until the longest root is around 5 cm (2 inches) before moving it into soil. Fall roots are slower to anchor, and a cutting potted up too early often sulks.

A reader in a hurry can stop here. The rest is the why behind these adjustments, and a check for the few cases where October actually is a bad time.

Why do people say fall propagation is risky?

Plants propagate fastest when light and warmth are abundant. New roots are made of cells that have to divide, and dividing cells need energy. Energy comes from photosynthesis, which depends on light. So the more light a cutting gets, the faster it can spin up the metabolism it needs to grow roots.

In fall, two things shift at once. Days get shorter, and the sun comes in at a lower angle, so even your sunniest window delivers less light than it did three months ago. At the same time, glass cools, and a windowsill that felt warm in August can sit a few degrees below room temperature in October. Cooler tissue means slower chemistry inside the cutting. Both effects compound.

The shorthand "propagate in spring" is shorthand for "propagate when conditions are good." A warm, well-lit room in October has the same conditions as a warm, well-lit room in April. The calendar is a proxy for what the plant actually responds to, not the cause.

Did you know? Monstera in their native Mexican rainforests don't have a true dormant season. They slow down when light drops and pick back up when it returns, but they keep growing through what we'd call winter. The "fall is bad for cuttings" rule comes from temperate-climate gardening, not from anything monstera actually does.

When is it actually too late?

Branch on the conditions in front of you, not the date on the calendar. Three things actually stall a cutting, and if all three are fine, October is fine.

ConditionThresholdWhat to do
Room temperatureBelow 60°F (15°C) at nightMove the cutting to a warmer room, or wait until you can keep one room reliably warm.
Light levelThe room needs a lamp on during the dayAdd a small grow light, or wait. Without light, roots won't form.
Parent plant healthAlready dropping leaves, yellowing, or recovering from repottingLet the parent recover first. A stressed plant is a poor cutting source in any season.

If the room you're proposing to use stays at 65°F and gets bright indirect light most of the day, and the parent is in good shape, October is the same as any other month. If two of the three are off, wait until you can fix at least one. If all three are off, wait until spring.

What else slows down in a monstera in fall?

Cuttings aren't the only thing that downshifts when light drops. Watering frequency drops too, because the plant uses less water when it's growing more slowly. New leaves come less often. Fertilizing can pause until late winter without the plant noticing. Most of the seasonal advice you read about monstera (Monstera deliciosa) is about working with this slower metabolism rather than against it.

Repotting, in particular, is worth holding off until spring. The same fall slowdown that lengthens rooting time also stretches out how long a monstera takes to bounce back from being moved into a new pot. Recovery happens on the plant's energy budget, and that budget is smaller in October than it will be in March.

You may also notice your monstera not pushing out new leaves the way it did in summer. That's almost always seasonal rather than a sign of trouble. There's a normal rhythm to how often a healthy monstera puts out new growth, and it slows in fall the same way rooting does.

Most of the "wait until spring" advice online is about the parent plant's slower recovery from being cut, not about whether the cutting itself can root. The cutting is fine. The question "is it too late?" assumes propagation has a season. For an indoor monstera, it has conditions. If your living room in October looks like your living room in April, the plant doesn't know the difference.


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